Each brand has their own process, and often these steps are happening concurrently or in a different order. This is an example of how a brand might think about organizing tasks in preparation for sample making, not a right/wrong order of operations.


Step One

Design & Ideation- The design needs to be clearly understood. The full who-what-where-when-why and how. Who is your customer? What do they do in their day, what will they spend on your design, and what are their values? Where do they work and play? When do they wear your design and with what? Why is your design something people need or want? And, very importantly, how is the design made- where are the seams, what kind of seams, what kind of fabric, are there closures like zippers? Pockets? How many and what kind of sewing machines will your factory need to have?


Step Two

Technical Design- This is the time to very clearly define the “how” of your design. There must at least be a preliminary tech pack to begin sampling! Technical designers are indispensable fashion professionals who create tech packs that result in great products. Imagine building a house without an architectural blueprint- bad idea. Your technical designer will create the “blue print” so that I can make an informed sample of your product, which will then lead to a successful production run. Like a blue print, there needs to be technical to-scale sketches of the design and measurements of each finished size and each design feature. Not a place to scrimp, designers!


Step Three

Pattern Making- Pattern making is the process where the pattern (also called a garment pattern or sewing pattern) is created for your design. Generally, a pattern is a paper template that is used to cut out the special shapes of fabric which make up your design. This is where the indispensable DNA of your product lives. It is so, so important! Your pattern maker is a fit and garment construction expert. Many pattern makers specialize in subcategories such as tween girls active wear, or women’s blazers. While most factories can create your pattern, I recommend working with a freelancer so you can ensure that you own your pattern for life and can access it at any time. Too often we see brands lose awful amounts of time and money when they cannot get their pattern from their factory.


Sourcing - This can be a confusing term. In fashion you will hear sourcing in reference to materials and suppliers/production or factories. It is a good idea to begin sourcing your materials during the first step- design and ideation. Sourcing when it comes to your factory is tightly connected to what kind of design you are making. A factory that excels in activewear is likely not the factory that will make a beautiful structured blazer. Different sewing machines and other equipment are needed to work with different types of fabrics.

Step Four